Last Wednesday I had my first day off here in Italy and took the opportunity to explore a new city: Genova.
I began what was supposed to be a nice relaxing day running down to the village in time for the bus, my backpack flying all over the place and my trusty old sandals nearly sending me flying down the steep road. Perhaps I should have remembered Italy's relaxed approach to timings as the bus was later than I... I took the bus and then the train to get to Genova and, completely by accident, ended up not paying a penny as a) I was very confused by the ticket system and was expecting someone to come and sell me a ticket and b) the Italians clearly also have a very relaxed approach to ticket-checking (unlike London's many electronic barriers and random spot-checks on buses). Needless to say I arrived in Genova feeling quite smug and spent the money I had saved on a cappuccino and croissant, whilst reading my little tourist guide and planning my day.
In the end I didn't plan much and spent the day wandering up and down streets, round and round piazzas, following people I thought were tourists to the main sites and exploring little alleyways that looked interesting or mysterious. Perhaps what I liked most about this city was how easy it was to feel relaxed, to blend in to a sea of people and not be bothered or stared at as the only tourist in the city. As nice as it is to explore unexplored areas, sometimes it's also nice to follow the crowd, I think.
To begin with I walked down the main shopping street, Settembre XX, which at first didn't seem like much, reminding me a little of some parts of Oxford Street. But as you go further you find yourself walking on beautiful tiled floor, beneath ornamented arches and illuminated shop signs, beautifully architectured shop fronts and patterned ceilings. I wandered a little in and out of the shops before arriving at the end of the street where stood one of Genova's famous palazzos. This one, Palazzo Ducale, is lemon yellow with light pink window-frames and painted pillars on its facade. It is my first taste of Genovan architecture and it is beautiful. From there I wander into the old town; firstly to the Catedrale di San Lorenzo, an eerily gothic cathedral placed in the middle of a small square. When I visit the sky is dark and cloudy, giving this little square an air of gloominess - I revisit later in the rain to find the square empty and eery, I like it a lot.
Around the old town are a series of small alleyways, known as caruggi. They are narrow and dark with only small shafts of light entering from open windows of the tall buildings towering above the cobbled paths. Here are hidden restaurants and cafes, doorways leading to little shops and homes , and even grander doorways leading to big courtyards of white pillars and flowers, painted ceilings, marble staircases and chiming clocks.
Weaving in and out of these streets, I found the port and marvelled at the many boats parked at the pier and Genova's newest edition, a big, old wooden sailing ship, which I'm not really sure what represents, but I joined the crowd of tourists to take a look and a photo anyway.
As it started to rain a little I walked back into those small alleyways, sheltering by staying close to the building fronts. The streets emptied but, British as I am, I defiantly remained in the open air, refusing to be scared away by a little drizzle. In too quick a moment that shower turned into a storm and I realised I was the only person still on the streets, running for shelter to the incredulous eyes of many-a dry and smug Italian. I burst into a cafe right by the cathedral and traipsed gingerly to a table, leaving a trail of rain-water behind me. Whilst the rain beat down outside I ate delicious ravioli with ragú and drank lemon soda.
Then the sun came out but it was time to leave. I wandered through the market to get back to the station, and not long later was back in Cappelletta telling tales of the day and how much I liked the city.
I'll be back soon, Genova.
